Mljet, Croatia

Tim Cooke

It’s a place more dazzling than you can imagine…

An island… on a lake… within an island… well out into the Adriatic Sea. The only way to get here is to sail, whether by private boat or via a 90-minute fast ferry out of the port of Gruz near Dubrovnik and then, after a vigorous trek from the delightful harbour at Pomena on the island of Mljet, you skirt around a smaller lake before coming to a jetty on a larger lake where a motor launch will take you to St Mary’s Island with its Benedictine Monastery dating back to the 12th century.

One of the world’s best swimming spots?

On St Mary’s Island, Mljet

Mljet Island is a National Park, 23 miles long and two miles wide, rich in vegetation and wildlife. Here you’ll see butterflies the size of bats. 

People rightly talk about its penetrating beauty, with striking light and colour at every turn.  Bathers here speak of enjoying the best swim of their lives. The salty water is clear and gently warmed, easy to stay in for a long time with wonderful views from every angle as you circle the island. 

Heavenly views on Mljet

Back ashore again and the small chapel inside the Monastery is disarmingly simple. There is an active programme of restoration of the adjacent cloisters and garden. 

Inside the Monastery on St Mary’s Island

The Cloisters on St Mary’s Island

Rush hour, Mljet

You need to plan for two overnights here to get the best chance to enjoy this place. No hardship I assure you. Pomena is a sweet little port, popular for yachts and offering plenty of good restaurants overlooking the water. 

Sailing by, Mljet

Room with a view, Mljet

Pomena, Mljet

Exquisitely memorable in every way. I hope to be back.